An olive oil up to par with the wine selection, a conversation with Mathieu Escoffier
Mathieu Escoffier with chef Cliff Tan at Ma Cuisine (© Ma Cuisine)
A Creation with Vert Cévennes: noble beetroot, 18-month comté by Maison Janier, grated nutmeg, pepper, all enhanced by La Magnanerie’s olive oil (© Ma Cuisine)
Trained by renowned French chefs Joël Robuchon and Éric Pras, Mathieu Escoffier grew up in and around “Ma Cuisine”, his parents' gourmet bistro in Beaune (Burgundy, France). In 2019, he launched with Anthony Charmetant a branch of the family restaurant in Singapore, with a gastro wine bar concept that earned a Michelin star after only one year. He selected Vert Cévennes from Domaine La Magnanerie for his colourful creations at Ma Cuisine and we asked him to tell us a bit more about what guided this choice.
What are your criteria in selecting olive oils for Ma Cuisine?
At Ma Cuisine it was essential to have an olive oil that is at one with our wine selection, namely of extreme quality and from sustainable farming, without chemical inputs.
Organoleptic qualities are essential and we were looking for an overall vibrant taste with an astringency that can give certain dishes a last-minute “kick”.
Do you have a favourite recipe in which the green gold of the Mediterranean brings a decisive touch?
We have been lucky enough to work with Bruno Cayron's non-hybrid field tomatoes, and combining the Vert Cévennes with the sweetness of his fruits was simply divine. As finding the right balance is key, we found the perfect duo, that may seem very simple but offers optimal sensory complexity.
Olive oil has not traditionally been favoured in French haute cuisine, where butter is preferred in most regions. Things are changing thanks to better understanding of the nutritional and sensory qualities of olive oil, and the search for a lighter and healthier cuisine. Are there any traditional recipes that you think could be revisited with olive oil?
Mashed potatoes with olive oil has already become a standard dish in the Mediterranean area but ought to gain recognition all over the world, it is a real delight.
I recently tried an olive oil ice cream, hay-smoked, which was also a delight, off the beaten track but conveying a clear sense of succulence.
Interview by Virginie Gallet
Ma Cuisine
38 Craig Rd, Singapour 089676
Tel: +65 6224 1838
macuisinesg.com