EVOO: Key Things to Know Before Buying (FAQ)
Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is more widely used throughout the world but most of us have limited knowledge about this somewhat complex product. So we tried to put together the key things you need to know before buying and using olive oil. We are on hand if you have any other question!
-
Extra virgin olive oil is actually a fruit juice, the juice of the olive fruit extracted mechanically. To be considered “extra virgin”, the oil should have no taste defects and a low level of free fatty acids (<0,8%), an indicator of its freshness.
-
EVOO, if kept in optimal conditions (away from oxygen, heat and light), will keep 18-24 months after extraction. After opening the bottle or can, it is best to use the oil within 2 months.
All olive oils will naturally oxydize over time. The only difference will be the speed at which they reach this state.
Factors increasing oxydation speed: no filtration of pulp residue, exposure to light (clear bottle), exposure to oxygen (leaving the bottle open or leaving it in an open-mouth container) and exposure to heat (leaving next to the stove).
Factors reducing oxydation speed: initial level of polyphenols (natural antioxydants), protection from heat (ideal storage temp 18-24°C), limited exposure to light (dark glass or opaque bottle) and oxygen (air-proof container, tank inerted with nitrogen or argon).
An unfiltered EVOO in a clear glass bottle under day light is on a highway to rancid land! It will turn rancid in a matter of days or weeks.
-
Olive harvest is once a year only: in the Northern hemisphere from October to January (around the Mediterranean, Middle East, China and Japan) and in the Southern hemisphere from March to July (South America, South Africa and Oceania).
Olive Oil is produced in many parts of the world, but the biggest producer in volume far ahead anyone else is Spain (~50% of world production). Italy and Greece come second (each ~15% of world output).
China and Japan started producing very small quantities of olive oil.
-
The oil used to be extracted from the olives by means of presses but the preferred modern method is to use a centrifuge that allows much better control.
The expression "cold pressed", still seen on many bottles, has therefore become mostly irrelevant and does not provide information on the quality of the product.
For EVOO, no heat can be added to the extraction process and the EU regulates the maximum extraction temperature at 27°C.
-
Yes, there are about 1500 existing olive varieties (or cultivars) in the world! 500 varieties are cultivated commercially, most of them in Italy. This is due to Italy’s geographic diversity and historical choice to protect terroirs and regional specificities for olive oil. Conversely, 20 varieties are cultivated commercially in Spain.
Some olive varieties are so rare that they exist only in the field of one producer. This is the case for example of some of Marco Rizzo’s varieties, they are even protected by a Slow Food Presidium.
Like with wine, varieties will be very important in providing the sensory profile of the oil. The characteristics of the land, choices and know-how of the producer will also have an impact. Just like with wine, blends and monocultivars are both interesting in their own right, not one is superior to the other. Some varieties with tricky sensory characteristics may be more pleasant as part of a blend.
-
In sensory analysis, EVOOs are characterised by fruitiness (green or mature, sensory notes, intensity), bitterness and pepperiness. These three elements must be present in EVOO.
The bitterness and the peppery kick you may feel in your palate come from the polyphenols in the olive oil, aka its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory superheroes. These are the same polyphenols you may find in arugula, spinach, pepper and many others. One of these polyphenols, called Oleocanthal, is a chemical compound similar to Ibuprofen, developed naturally in the olive fruit.
The human brain is wired to be cautious of foods with a bitter taste. When we were hunter gatherers, it could be an indication of toxicity. However, bitterness (and pepperiness) in olive oil is a marker of the presence of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds: the polyphenols. Bitterness in olive oil is definitely not bad news and it is a great enhancer of other flavours in a dish!
-
The olive fruit naturally ripens from a green colour to a dark purple or black colour for most varieties. The maturation process is in fact the oxidation of the fruit, aka the degradation of its polyphenols.
A mature fruity olive oil will be extracted from fruits which are mature in majority (more black than green) and correspond to the end of the harvest period. Its taste will be more delicate and rotound with hints of mature fruit and grains.
A green fruity olive oil will be extracted from fruits before maturity in majority (more green than black) and correspond to the first stage of the harvest. Its taste will be fresher, more herbaceous, with stronger bitterness and pepperiness in general.
For more detail, see our article “Why Are Our Olive Oils Different?”
-
EVOO is one of the superfoods of the Mediterranean diet. It is in fact the most studied source of fat by nutritional research for its positive health benefits, which have been proven against cancer, cardiovascular disease, neurodegenerative disease, etc.
While coconut oil contains ~90% saturated fat, EVOO contains ~70% unsaturated fat.
Here are the health claims allowed by the EU with regards to EVOO (premium quality only):
- Linoleic acid contributes to the maintenance of normal blood cholesterol levels
- Replacing saturated fats with unsaturated fats in the diet contributes to the maintenance of normal blood cholesterol levels
- Olive oil polyphenols contribute to the protection of blood lipids from oxidative stress
- Vitamin E contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress
Polyphenols content vary with olive variety, climatic conditions and extraction quality. They can range from 0 (rancid EVOO) to more than 1000 mg/kg. For interesting health properties in particular relevant for cardiovascular diseases, a minimum quantity recommended is 250 mg/kg for a daily intake of 20 g (EU health claim). The average content in supermarket EVOO is around 150 mg/kg. Our olive oils have polyphenols in the range 400-1000 mg/kg.
-
Yes, if filtered, EVOO has a smoke point between 180 and 220°C. Do not cook with unfiltered EVOO just like you would avoid cooking with unclarifed butter (same browning processes of leftover particles causing carcinogenic particles).
EVOO smoke point depends on initial polyphenol level. The polyphenols will degrade while cooking but at the same time will protect the oil itself and the food cooked in the oil.
Most of the flavours inside the olive oil start to evaporate at around 50°C already. You will have a neutral tasting oil by the end of the process. The EVOO you choose to cook is purely a matter of arbitrating between budget and health (high polyphenol EVOO is ultimately always better for health, but costlier).