In its traditional version, the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena in Italy is produced exclusively from fresh cooked grape must, then aged in barrels of various wood types. This condiment has a very ancient history, since cooked grape must was already used in Roman times to season meats or preserve fruit. In the Middle Ages, it features as a key ingredient in various Italian recipes.

PDO and PGI labels

Like many other traditional products, balsamic vinegar suffered in the last decades of the 20th century from the proliferation of counterfeit products. Since the designation “balsamic vinegar” is not protected, i.e. any vinegar can be sold under this name, a group of producers decided to create a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO or DOP in Italian) in 2000, the “Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena DOP”. A Protected Geographical Indication (PGI or IGP in Italian) followed in 2009, the “Balsamic Vinegar of Modena IGP”.

These designations certify the origin and quality of the vinegar. The specifications are particularly strict for the PDO, with a minimum ageing period of 12 years and rigorous chemical and organoleptic tests. This explains the stratospheric prices sometimes reached by PDO vinegars, up to thousands of dollars for a 100 ml bottle.

In contrast, the quality range is more varied the PGI certification. Products made with industrial wine vinegar and caramel can be sold under this label, provided that the blending takes place in the Modena region and that the vinegar has been aged for 60 days.

However, there are also some very good products with the PGI certification, at much more affordable prices than PDO for everyday uses. So how do you find your way around?

Some useful points of reference

Before tasting, the first thing to do is to check the list of ingredients. To approach PDO quality, the vinegar must be prepared essentially from cooked grape must (at least 70%), with a small proportion of wine vinegar. Concentrated grape must (a syrup obtained by dehydrating grape juice), caramel and other additives should be avoided.

Once you've checked this, your palate is the judge! Do you find pleasant woody notes? Balanced sweet and sour flavours? A pleasant velvety texture?