Where does most of the olive oil we consume come from? Many of us have this idea that olives are cultivated in ancient terraced groves that are typical of the Mediterranean landscapes. However, if these groves still exist and are a beautiful testimony of ancient civilizations, the reality of olive faming is in fact very contrasted, and rapidly changing.

Industrial strategies have moved a significant share of the production of olives from traditional groves to large-scale plantations over the past sixty years. Most of these vast groves are located in Spain. Spain is the world’s #1 olive oil producer in volume, and supplies around half of worldwide available olive oil [1]. Large scale olive plantations typically rely on what are called “conventional” methods of farming, that is the use of irrigation, high densities, agrochemicals and mechanization to increase productivity.

Symbolic of this search for scale and productivity is the fairly recent trend for super-high density (SHD) groves that can count up to 2,500 trees per hectare. This compares with traditional olive groves which have about 80 trees per hectare.

 A number of reports, from both NGOs and public bodies, have underlined the detrimental environmental impact of intensive olive farming [2]. Soil erosion is of particular concern, as inappropriate management of soil, combined with the pre-existing high risk of erosion in many olive farming areas, have contributed to desertification on a wide scale in Andalucía [3].

Two models at odds

On the other side of the spectrum are the traditional olive groves that were typically planted before the 1950’s. If they are cultivated in an appropriate way, these groves have a demonstrated positive effect on soil quality, water retention and biodiversity, in addition to their cultural and scenic value [2]. Olive groves with a lower tree density are also very good fire retardants, as olive wood is not a good burning wood, unlike pine or eucalyptus essences (the latter widely planted in some areas to supply the cellulose industry).

Unfortunately a number of these groves are abandoned as they are not considered economically viable, mostly because their configuration makes them more labour intensive. The result is that abandoned trees are slowly killed by invasive plants such as ivy and then overtaken by other species. With olive oil available at rock-bottom prices in supermarkets, a land which used to feed villages and families is no longer cared for and used.

But there is hope and traction to find a sustainable model for the more traditional olive groves. Associations such as Gli Olivi di Etruria in Italy are raising awareness and teaching people how to recover and manage abandoned olive groves. "In my small hometown of 10,000 souls there are over 15,000 abandoned olive trees, and over 100,000 throughout the Province. This is a tragedy, an incredible situation of which very few people are aware", says Pierluigi Presciuttini, the President and founding member of the association that has already saved hundreds of trees from abandonment.

Similarly, “3rd wave” olive oil producers such as Marco Rizzo in Campania, Andrea Lucarelli and Andrea Cecconi (from Stoica) in Umbria, are demonstrating that abandoned groves can be restored and produce again exceptionally high quality olive oil from old varieties.

Other producers, such as La Olivilla in Spain, have shown that groves which had been “intensified” can be reconverted to a sustainable model using biodynamic and organic practices, with some effort but very tangible (and rapid) impact on water retention, biodiversity  and erosion. Looking at a satellite image of the farm, the environmental impact of their work is even jarring, as the green of their olive groves contrasts with the advancing desert of Taberna (see below).

Encouragingly, it has recently been observed that a number of groves that practice intensive farming (including super-high density) are switching to organic methods in an effort to be more sustainable and competitive in the medium term, according to an article published last year in the Olive Oil Times [4].

The solutions therefore exist to cultivate olive trees in a more sustainable way, with potentially a significant impact on water retention, biodiversity, soil improvement, carbon capture, and ultimately our health. At present, we are overall producing more olive oil than we need [5] at an important environmental cost but there is certainly great leverage for change through new policies, education and consumer choices.

[1] Dashboard of the International Olive Oil Council

[2] “EU olive subsidies driving Mediterranean to ruin”, WWF, 18/06/2001,

[3] “The Environmental Impact of Olive Oil Production in the European Union: Practical Options for Improving the Environmental Impact”, European Forum on Nature Conservation and Pastoralism

[4] “Organic Olive Groves Flourish in Spain”, The Olive Oil Times, Daniel Dawson, 05/11/2019

[5] “Olive oil has gotten so cheap that farmers in Spain are struggling to make ends meet”, Business Insider, 19/02/2020
“Tunis government buys surplus olive oil”, ANSAMed, 07/02/2012